The population hasn’t changed much in the last two decades, but it seems as though everything else might have. It’s been twenty years since I ventured back to this place. And twenty years ago, people were still shoveling away inches of river silt and washing away flood lines from all the walls left over from a long, hard flood. But those stained walls and silt-covered, gray fields and highways aren't really how I remember the place I spent the first ten years of my life. For that, you probably have to go back more like twenty-five years. And to be honest, I didn’t really know what to expect when I passed that city limits sign a couple days ago. But as I did, I realized quickly that I was in a town that felt warmly familiar and yet so strangely foreign, all at the same time. In fact, some places looked just the same as when I had left them--small, simple, well-kept. For instance, the ball fields had just been cut and the water tower shined in its usual silver. And the trains--they still roared down the tracks every so often. And the big grain trucks still kicked up dust on dirty, gravel roads in the river bottoms. But then again, other places were eerily different--as if just skeletons of the things they used to be. For example, the same school swings that I swang on twenty-five years ago still dangled in the summer breeze. The only difference was, there were no kids in their worn seats, and it looked as if there hadn't been for quite some time now. And where there was once sand for little feet, tall weeds grew up and fought the chains for room under the metal crossbars. And as for the Wood Shed in the middle of town, where I remember old men on squeaky bar stools, now there is no one. Even the woman behind the bar who would always take a dollar in exchange for a big bag of ice has vanished. And although the four walls of the tiny gas station still stand at the corner of town, gone now are the 3Musketeers and PayDays that used to line a little shelf in front of a counter that was no longer than a TV dinner table. And gone, too, is the lanky man who always sat behind it. And where there were once 4-H kids laughing over cheeseburgers and fries and Ketchup, they are gone, too, now. There are no tables. No wooden chairs. No Mac's Cafe. And just two miles outside of town, there isn't so much as a piece of concrete left of the little sidewalk that led to the little white farm house that kept dry the purple bedroom and the pencil marks that climbed the walls as three little girls grew. And gone, too, is that little white farm house. ...And the matching playhouse. ...And the big gray barn. ...And the tin shed where a little girl kept her treasured rock tumbler. In their places now stand rows and rows of tall, brown corn waiting to be taken up into big green combines. It was almost as if time had carved out this little place's soul and left only the swings and the tracks and some of the walls of what used to be. And yet, as I drove out of town, I could see kids playing hopscotch in front of that red-brick school. And I saw old men laughing on squeaky bar stools in that tiny bar. And as for that little white farm house, I saw that, too, standing tall amid all that brown corn. And best of all, I saw myself looking at those purple walls lined with books and teddy bears right before I closed my eyes and turned out the light. And as I glanced in my rearview mirror, I couldn’t help but see the ghosts of the people and the places that had long ago woven themselves into my story. And it was just then, in my rearview mirror, that everything looked the same again—just exactly as I had left it twenty-five years ago, still the same painting that I had always...and would always call...home.
56 Comments
Karen Voigts
9/22/2015 02:11:33 pm
My grandparents lived in Berger, most of their adult lives. My father graduated from Herman High School in the late 1930's. I spent weeks and weeks of many childhood summers in Berger. Swinging on those ball diamond swings, walking uptown for Grandma to pick up milk or a loatf bread for her. My cousin and I would catch snakes and frogs and more around the old one-room schoolhouse where my dad went to grade school, that became City Hall. I would lay in bed at night and feel the whole house shake as a train went through town right behind the houses across the street from my grandparents' house. I loved Berger.
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9/23/2015 07:15:26 am
Thank you for sharing, Karen! I loved hearing your memories. And I didn't realize that City Hall was once the school. I had been meaning to go back for a while now. A lot has changed, but then again, it hasn't. And I liked that. And I agree with you. There are a lot of good memories wrapped up in that little town!
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Aaron Bounds
9/23/2015 07:22:01 am
4-H kids and burgers at Macs. :)
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9/23/2015 09:20:44 am
Haha! I haven't forgotten! Mac's was better than City Hall because Mac's had cheeseburgers and fries!
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Judith (Guese) Harmon
9/23/2015 07:32:11 am
love to read about the old home towns.
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9/23/2015 09:26:49 am
Me too, Judith! There's just something about them! Thanks for reading!
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Lynn Helming
9/23/2015 07:44:22 am
Such a great little story .Im not sure if I know you but truly enjoyed the story .It. Does sound like our childhood memories as a child growing up in more simple times
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9/23/2015 09:31:27 am
Glad you enjoyed it, Lynn! It was definitely a simpler time!
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Jan Holtgrewe
9/23/2015 08:26:07 am
My grma grpa Anna and Louis Speckhals lived in Berger.They raised their family there. Devine Louis (Dugan),Dorothy and Robert (my dad).I remember going down to Macs as a small child with my cousins to get candy. Picking up buckeyes in grmas yard by the bags full. The parades going down main street. The many many ballgames my dad played. I also remember winning 5 cakes in a row at the cake walk at the ballpark. Collecting soda bottles at the ballgames and oh, lots of crackerjacks. I will remember the inside of my grandparents house like it was yesterday. Every other Thursday my mom would do my grmas hair. I really grpa Speckhals would stomp on the floor to get grmas attention because she was deaf. So so many memories. The flowers and gardens and chicken house. Walking my grpa around because he had rhuematoid which I.now have. My worst memory is the tractor wreck that Nelson was injured when tractor flipped over on him and I flew off wagon and tore up my face. Strange how you can block out the bad thing. I also remember helping my grandparents clean the schools. Had the gym to myself and I still remember the smell. Yes, Berger will forever be a big part of my happy memories.
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9/23/2015 09:35:52 am
Loved reading about your time in Berger, Jan. It sounds even more alive in your memories! Thank you so much for sharing!
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Sharon Jacobs Adams
9/23/2015 08:56:59 am
My husband, Ray "Butch" Adams grew up in Berger Missouri and he has so many fond memories of life on the farm and that quaint town. Paul and Claudine Blumer were his grandparents and what a wonderful couple they were, they embraced me into the family and loved me like their own. We have visited Berger a number of times over the past 43 years of marriage and it always is a pleasure to hear his stories of being a kid in Berger and all the mischief he got into there!!! Thanks for such a great article
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9/23/2015 09:39:53 am
So happy you enjoyed it, Sharon! It's such a little town, but it seems as though it has touched so many people! Thank you for sharing your wonderful memory!
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:33:57 am
I knew your husband as a pesty kid. His sisters, Janeial and I am Kaye's together
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Virgil willimann
9/23/2015 01:21:41 pm
What was your family name? I enjoyed your story! This is my home place just wondering if I knew your family
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9/23/2015 02:58:25 pm
Hi, Virgil. So happy you enjoyed it! My maiden name is Brandt. My great grandmother was Ida Schutt.
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:29:40 am
Hi Laura. I grew up in Berger also. Our family knew everyone in Berger. Where did you live as I don't remember. Did you live in the country. I remember Ruth Schutt
Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:25:34 am
Hi Virgil. We do go back away now from when we were kids growing up in Berger
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9/23/2015 07:34:13 pm
You are such a good writer. I am so proud of you. Just wish our families could spend time together. Did you see the old photos we sent your Dad?
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9/25/2015 08:13:15 am
Thank you! That means so much! And I haven't seen them yet. I'll have to take a look at those next time I'm home! Dad also has a book on Berger from the 1970s I'm interested to see.
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Nikki Harris
9/23/2015 07:42:01 pm
My whole family has once lived in Berger at one point in their lives. My great grandparents, all my uncles, and cousins roamed that town. Even I lived there for a short period of time. My mother and I had lived with what would be my great aunt and uncle. We then lived right across from Mac's. My mom would work there including others from my famiky. I have to say the burgers from there were the best! Ever since I was little I always wondered what that small little town would have looked like in its hay day! I would agree that there have been some pretty great times in that small little town and even though there have been great times there have been some tragic times as well. That's the good thing about living in a small community, we all came together and showed our love and support. I miss that little town! By the way I'm related to the Gardners :)
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9/25/2015 08:20:54 am
Hi, Nikki! I loved Mac's, and I went to school with Sara Gardner. Thanks for sharing your memories! I love hearing about how this little town has touched everyone!
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Ketha bounds
9/23/2015 08:43:45 pm
I had the privilege of teaching elementary music for many years in the Hermann School Distrixt, including the Berger School.!
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Glenn Vollertsen
9/24/2015 05:08:04 am
Very nice piece Laura. Saw you the day you were here . Now I would of taken the time to talk to you . Everyone here is still trying to keep the town alive but it gets so hard everyday to keep up with the times . The corporate farmers are here now so there isn't any personal involvement from the farm families anymore. I can remember thirty families alone that used to farm the upper bottoms . They would all come to the church and fireman's picnics. Now it's just the big trucks speeding through town an cussing because they have to slow down as to not hit one of the kids . Franklin County an MoDot are the two biggest killers of the town . We are so small that we are forgotten by them until we want to make improvements an better or town but are stopped. We have to be within complete compliance with their rules or we can't do it . But don't ask for help , call for a county cop ,or want a hole in the street repaired . But....... I don't want to move anywhere else . It's my home , my life ,and I wouldn't change it .
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9/25/2015 04:12:36 pm
Thank you, Glenn! Glad you enjoyed it. Would have loved to talk to you! Yes, a lot has changed. And it seems as though this little town has touched a lot of people through the years!
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BILL MUEHLHAUSEN
9/24/2015 07:30:23 am
In my family bible my Great Great Grandfather, Charles said this is where he settled in 1864, i believed he was a wagon maker. He meet his wife here Caroline Heinricks. { i'm not sure thats the correct spelling} Great story Laura I wish I knew more about the history of Berger.
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9/25/2015 04:16:16 pm
Thank you, Bill! Glad you enjoyed it! Seems as though this little town has a rich history. My dad has a photo book of Berger that the University of Mo. put together back in the 70s. I'm curious to take a look at it!
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Julie
9/24/2015 08:15:06 am
Laura this touches more than 220 hearts for sure. Your memories are my memories and I cherish each one. I'm was lucky enough to share that school with my husband who was always a classroom away. Today we wear a path between At. Louis and Berger, trying to get back as much as we can. The firemen's picnic and Christmas tree across the street from the gas station at Mac's will forever be in my heart. Thanks for writing this...it is truly a gift.
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9/25/2015 04:19:15 pm
Happy you enjoyed it, Julie! And thank you for sharing your memories! Love to hear them!
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Judy Lerbs
9/24/2015 08:18:44 am
Laura, I taught first and second grades at Berger School in the '60, and also third and fourth in the 80's. I lived across from Berger School and now my daughter, Leah, lives there. Many memories of the school , and the fact that I wonder if Miss Norma's ghost still roams the halls.
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9/25/2015 04:27:42 pm
Judy, thanks for sharing! I have some great memories from the school as well! It was the only time I ever shared a classroom with another grade. And I remember on its last day (before it became Hermann's district), the whole school took a photo. I still wonder where that photo ended up. Also, I haven't heard about Miss Norma's ghost!
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:42:24 am
Hi Judy. How much we all loved Miss Norma. I remember when Ike Bought you to Berger. A great addition to our community
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Erin Carl
9/24/2015 07:31:19 pm
Loce , Love , Love this! Come back anytime! The Carl clan is still here! In fact I think you photographed some of our equiptement! Love the photos, too!
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Jean Groner Kappelmann
9/24/2015 08:40:16 pm
I grew up in Berger in 1940/50's. My dad was the owner on Mac's Cafe. And he did have the best burgers. My grandparents were Ewald and Katie LaBoube and at one time he had a butcher shop there. I have many memories growing up in that town. Great story and I very much enjoyed reading it.
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9/26/2015 07:51:59 am
Glad you enjoyed it, Jean! And thanks for sharing! It's nice to be able to connect the names and the people to the memories!
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:46:46 am
Hi Jeannie. Yes Mac made the best burger. It was the place to go on Sat night for dinner. I knew Ewald andKatie I would collect money for delivering the newspapers to them
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Mary Horstmann Buschmeyer
9/25/2015 06:30:21 pm
I lived just outside of Berger on Hwy B, on a farm overlooking the Mo River Bottoms. My mother was born near Berger on a farm on Hwy B just down the road from ours. It was the Ferd Gatzemeyer farm, it was sold to Allen Meyer after granpa died. My brother Norbert Horstmann owns our homeplace. We grew up in the 50 & 60's in Berger. I remember many things of Berger, Mac's cafe, the Post Office where my mom worked part time., Lorene Ratherts store, St Paul's school, only 4 in my class, the train depot where dad would take cream in cans, Blumer funeral home, Stratmans store, Dr Trail, Christmas downtown, Santa would come, gifts would be drawn to people who patronize local busnesses, & us kids would always get a orange a full bag of candy, I believe that was sponsored by Bade's Garage. During the summer big deal to go to bookmobile which stopped once a month. Also remember Strobels downtown and we used to have telephone opr in the upstairs of that building.
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9/26/2015 07:57:33 am
Wow! Such good memories! Thank you for sharing, Mary! I love hearing about this little town in its heyday and how it has touched so many people!
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Mary LaBoube Binkholder
2/27/2017 08:03:30 am
Mary Buschmeyer - I remember all those same places!! I like to tell people I attended a one/room school house😊 Were 5 in my class. Both my parents and grandparents grew up near Berger. I remember going to Rathert's store and buying groceries for Mom. She would write it down on my parents ongoing "bill" that they paid at some point. My two sisters live at the farm where I grew up one in the old house and one in a new house. Nice that we can all still go back home!! My grandparents' home is still in Berger, but in some disrepair. Hard to see that once beautiful home in that condition. My other grandparents' home burned down many years ago with my uncle sleeping - so sad. Lots of memories in that little town.
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2/27/2017 12:08:16 pm
Hi, Mary. Thank you for sharing your story! So many memories. And so much has changed. And while I didn't attend a one-room school house like yourself, I did have five kids in my class! I was there for the last year of the Berger grade school. So, it was so great to hear your story. Again, thank you for sharing!
Mary Buschmeyer
2/28/2017 01:56:06 pm
I have very happy memories of growing up in Berger,MO, & you & your family are also a part of them.
Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:55:02 am
I went to public school so we didn't cross paths often. The Christmas downtown was sponsored by the Berger Commercial Club. Spitz Lerbs was Santa. I remember making those bags of candy when I was in high schoo with Mom and Dad. I loved Christmas time in the Store and all the various candies!!!
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Janie Zeilmann
9/27/2016 12:10:12 pm
My father grew up in Berger and his parents were born and raised there also. It's a sleepy little town full of whispered memories in the buildings, the land there.
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 10:58:44 am
I remember visiting George and ?Feida Zeilman during the summer and playing at their house. Florence Strobel our neighbor. Was related to them
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Robert Rethemeyer
2/27/2017 12:45:18 pm
I grew up in the Berger Bottoms. John and Olivia Rethemeyer were my parents. Part of our farm is next to the Bias Winery. When the Lower Bottom School closed in 1951 and students went to Berger, Dad drove the school car which took kids to the two room school in town...which became the City Hall. Dad bought the Lower Bottom School library for fifty cents. Our son now has most of those books. My two uncles, Henry Fallbeck and Walter Fallbeck were mail carrier and sub mail carrier for Susie Strothman's Dad, the Berger Postmaster. Miss Norma was my first grade teacher at the Berger first through sixth grade building the last year it was a school. We opened the new school the Spring of that year at the site of the seventh and eighth building. My brother, Karl, was a student there. Also, not only did we get a new building, but that was the first year the Bookmobile started. We sold much of our grain to the Haid Elevator, and it was trucked by the Brandt's. I was cleaning my basement recently and found one of the knives and a change purse which Bade Oil Company gave as Christmas presents. I ate hamburgers at Strobles, and I had my hair cut in the barber shop next to the telephone exchange. Miss Noeprmas sister, who had had polio, ran the switchboard as I recall. Dad was the repairman for the lines, and I helped him by shinning up the poles to put insulators on the poles and tie the telephone lines to the poles. A story from first grade...I don's remember who had this happen to himself, but one of the boys came in from using the outhouse messed up from the waist down. He had fallen through the boys outhouse and was mired in "Shiest" from the waist down. Miss Norma left with him, and we did not see him the rest of the day. Also, for me, one of the high points was to go to the fourth, fifth, sixth grade room each Friday and sing songs with them.
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 04:47:13 pm
Interesting about the telephone line. I didn't know someone fell thru the outhouse floor. How terrible. Remember the school coat room and water pail and dipper
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3/6/2017 04:13:06 pm
Hi Robert,
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Harold W. Englert
2/27/2017 01:25:18 pm
Laura, wonderful story. It's funny when people say they grew up in a small town I always ask how many people were in the town. When they say a few thousand I laugh and say that's not a small town...lol. Loved growing up in a true small town. Mom and Dad still live there next to the Methodist Church, which they bought several years ago, so I still get back there occasionally.
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Susan Strothmann Brooks
2/27/2017 04:51:02 pm
We had vacation Bible School in the basement at the start of summer here. Miss Sturm,a nurse Mexican missionary would come alternating years. She would teach us songs in Spanish
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3/6/2017 06:01:22 pm
Hi Harold. Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed it. And I agree. You don't get too much smaller than a couple hundred people!
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Zina Gardner
2/28/2017 06:48:31 pm
Hi Laura, i believe you went to school with my daughter Sara Gardner. I was 13 when my family moved from Defiance to Berger in the late 70's. My parents purchased the Jenny Lynn Cafe downtown and changed the name to The Berger Inn (all refer now to Mac's cafe). At that time Berger was so full of life and was an amazing town to grow up in. So many wonderful memories of the town and the townfolk....
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3/6/2017 06:08:41 pm
Hi Zina. Yes, I did go to school with Sara! So glad you found this post.I didn't know your story. So interesting! Thanks for sharing that. And you might be interested in these photos as well: http://www.lauramillerbooks.com/laura-millers-blog/population-226. They are from a book about Berger that was put together in the 1970s.
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Carol Burnis
12/18/2017 08:04:19 pm
It's so great to see all these comments on your blog, which by chance, I just stumbled across. I am not from Berger, but just bought the Schmidt place, so we are new residents. It's great to see the history through everyone's memories. We have plans to invest in the town and start a business here.
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Inspired by my little, Midwestern hometown, I write about rain on tin roofs, gravel roads, old trucks with holes in the floorboards, small-town summer nights, and most importantly, love.
FOLLOW ME! Laura Miller's first
contemporary romance novel, Butterfly Weeds, hit the Amazon Best-Seller's List and Top 100 in October 2012. The sequel to Butterfly Weeds, My Butterfly, released in June 2013. For All You Have Left, By Way of Accident, When Cicadas Cry and A Bird on a Windowsill followed. The Life We Almost Had debuted as a best-seller in 2018. Laura's latest small-town romance, The Dream, released in 2019 and is an Amazon #1 Best-seller. Also check out her book of poetry, entitled Love Story, and her children's book, Pay It Forward, available now! Archives
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